Was asked to film with Sean of strangerskateboards.us while he was in Tokyo for his new drop. We did everything on the fly pretty quickly, but it was a lot of fun to do. We filmed in Shibuya for a few hours and I came back another day to do some pick-up shots. I used the same setup as this video with a few changes. It was super easy to just go out and shoot with such a compact setup, but I want to improve it more.
It’s always fun to have actual content to make. Sometimes just having the gear isn’t enough. Hope to get my rigs into a studio situation soon for some more commercial and promo work!
4K UHD 60fps 4K, CINE-D
Converted to 24fps
Voightlander 40mm f/1.4 Leica M mount
Pentax 85mm f/1.8 M42 mount
Blue Kowa 16-H 2X Anamorphic Lens
Filmed in Shibuya, Tokyo.
Music is: While I’m Away by Equalibrum
I had been wanting an iPad Pro since the first generation, but I couldn’t really justify it. I have been using a Surface 3 for my daily basic computing and simple creative work. It played back stuff from my GH5 no problem. But when I saw the new basic iPad was editing GH5 video, I was very interested.
The new iPad Pros were announced and I waited until I sold a few things to order one. So far, I am VERY impressed. Other capabilities aside, the fact that it handles my GH5 footage so flawlessly and QUICKLY made it an instant winner for me. (It also handles 6K and 400Mbit Anamorphic like it’s no big deal. More tests with those later.) It takes a bit of time getting use to the limitations of LumaFusion if you are use to endless option editors from Adobe and Blackmagic. The first issue I saw is that I couldn’t desqueeze in preview. I think I’ll try to do a comparison of video quality from the raw video and a set pre-compressed in the DeSqueeze app (another app I highly recommend).
Once you copy your videos to the iPad or import them from wherever, you can view and trim them instantly. Scrubbing is instant and in full quality. You can do this in the window or full screen on the iPad. Then you can color tag the clips and start dragging them on your timeline. Once on the timeline, you can then edit the video in any way you want. My timeline was already set for 2.76:1 Ultra Panavision. Set your clip to Stretch in Fit Mode and you’re good to go. You can then copy this attribute and paste it to the other clips as you work on them. I do wish there was a way to select all the clips, though. The only issue I have found is that you can’t copy speed settings. You have to do that to each clip individually. But it handled 59.97 fps to 24 fps perfectly.
After that, you edit your clips on the timeline to your liking. Then comes one of the amazing parts… One you’re ready, select a clip again and then go to the Color & Effects tab… you can then instantly see a preview of any LUTs you have imported. Like, you can just touch any one, see it and play the clip back in real time. if you have 50 LUTs you can see how they on your clip instantly. After you have your LUT selected you can then tweak the clip’s color to your liking.
I went out to Ginza last weekend just to film a few clips to test this with. It’s the first video I shot with my new Blue Kowa 16-H, which will be my main lens from now on most likely. It worked very well with the Voightlander 40mm 1.4 (Leica M mount) that I have been using a lot lately. It’s so crazy to be editing video from a DSLR anamorphic rig on an iPad, but I don’t think this will be my last.
The limitations are something you have to work around. To get the film effect on the intro and end, I rendered out the video clips and then put them through an 8mm camera app. You only get 3 layers to work with, so you have to do as much as you can with one layer. The only thing I didn’t do on the iPad were my logo and the end card. I imported those to Affinity Photo and edited them to fit the video and end credits. I still want to see how far I can push what can be done on the iPad. I think next I need to find some good animation apps and really try to take it to another level.
I think the more I get use to workflow workarounds the more I can use the iPad to speed up projects and work on the go. That’s the plan. Most of that video was edited on the train from Yokohama to Tokyo. I am also finally getting my illustrations cleaned up and finished on the iPad. I need to move forward with those co I can start more. Music too? Yeah, hopefully. I’m excited. The iPad won’t be my only portable machine, though. I have something else, kinda. But that’s for another day.
4K UHD 60fps 4K, CINE-D
Converted to 24fps
Voightlander 40mm f/1.4 Leica M mount
Blue Kowa 16-H 2X Anamorphic Lens
Filmed in Ginza, Tokyo.
Music is: Luster (Interlude) by Equalibrum
I was lucky enough to get in on the first batch of the Rapido TehcnologyFVD-16A variable diopter. When this came out I was already in the market for a single focus solution, and Rapido just happened to have something that was exactly what I wanted and a few extras I didn’t know I wanted. I ended up getting the full set to make my anamorphic combo look like a monobloc lens. It’s not flawless but it’s very, very good.
I have the parts to use my Isco Ultra Star with this setup as well. I will shoot a bit with that after I finish practicing and tweaking with the Moller setup. Right now the only thing I’m missing is something in between the Moller and the Ultra Star, and then I’d have the anamorphic trifecta.
My Helios 44-2 isn’t in the best of shape. I like the atmosphere it gives, but it was a bit of a pain to set up in the Rapido Rear Metal Jacket. My Moller 32/2x isn’t so perfect either. But I absolutely love the look the combo gives. The best part with this new setup is that my shots look exactly the same with FVD-16a as without. I will push it a bit when I do some tests with my Ultra Star and my Leica Nocticron soon. But I hear that it also performs well with fast apertures.
I did have some slight issues with vignetting at first. But that was mostly caused by the original Rapido Moller clamp than the FVD. I ordered a new one from Jim and it works a charm. Before that I hacked together another clamp that let me set the Moller in the Helios a bit more and it worked well.
I had been filming on and off with the rig tweaking things and testing settings. Some plans fell through last Saturday and I was in the area anyway, so I decided to check out the Youtube Japan Hanami in Yoyogi park. I have been to a few of the early ones, and it’s not really my thing. (not really a Youtuber or drinker) I had some friends there and it was a good opportunity to film people without anybody freaking out. (Didn’t really work, my setup attracted all kinds of attention.) I didn’t stay long, but I got enough video to get a good run-and-gun feel for the bare rig. Everything was shot handheld with a monopod. I also had a Tiffen VND and a Marumi +1 diopter for a few shots. The only thing I wish I had was a matte box… I went ahead and bought a cheap basic one for this rig. I’ll get another really good one later.
I am so happy with the Rapido FVD… it’s exactly what I wanted. It destroys the SLR Magic Rangefinder in almost every way. It’s so much cleaner, sharper, and works better with fast lenses. The only thing I wish it was better at is that the focusing was smoother. Also, my current setup goes a tiny bit beyond infinity. Not sure if it’s my weird lens combo or the FVD itself.
I have a lot more practice to do with this setup, so I’ll most likely be uploading things shot with it and the Isco very soon. I also have some other projects coming down the line as well. Look forward to it!
Anamorphic Mode 60fps 4K, VLOG
Converted to 24fps
Helios 44-2 58mm lens with Rapido Rear Metal Jacket
Möller 32/2x Anamorphot with Rapido Full Metal Jacket
Rapido Technologies FVD-16A
Marumi +1 diopter
I have been gushing about the Cosmicar since I got it. I saw one image that caught my eye a year ago and it never left me, so I found it again, and discovered it was caught on the Cosmicar 75mm c-mount. I searched for other pictures and videos about the lens, and at the time there wasn’t much. In fact, I think there were only 2-3 videos shot using the lens on Youtube at the time and they weren’t great. I saw the potential, though. I showed a few samples to a photography friend of mine and asked if there were any lenses he knew of that could achieve the look. Things like the Zeiss Pancolar, the Helios, and Jupiter came up, but I already knew about those. I’m not sure, but something seemed off and magical about the Cosmicar, so I decided to get one.
Lucky me, I found a seller on ebay with a few early copies with perfect glass but had body blemishes/fading. $60 shipped to Japan. Best purchase of the year. (outside of my GH5)
I started taking photos with it and was ecstatic that it was everything I hoped it would be. Very little to no vignetting on the GH5 sensor. Shockingly sharp at f/1.4. FANTASTIC BOKEH. Makes the highlights bloom just the right neon color. Perfect. There’s some photos on my Instagramaccounts shot with it and I used it a bit in my 180fps slow motion video too. It’s a permanent part of my lens collection.
But what about Anamorphic? It’s too long to use on my 1.33x lenses. The actual body is too long to use on the Möller 32/2x. You can use it in ETC mode, but you lose some of the good parts of the edges when you do. The Isco Ultra Star fit the picture nicely. Almost no vignetting, super clean, easier to use than the Möller. Small enough to go portable. Not crazy on flare but has that perfect oval bokeh.
I shot a test of myself just to see how it would look, and we have a winner.
The only issue with the Cosmicar is it doesn’t have round aperture blades. As soon as I have the resources, I’m going to look into the possibility of doing a swap. It’s fine, as most of the good DOF shots are benefited by the full aperture.
I already had a shoot day booked with my friend Jennifer Liza, a model in the Tokyo area. She was down to try some weird lenses and I took the Cosmicar/Ultra Star combo into the city. We went to Shinjuku and Akihabara to find some good places and lights.
The only problem I had was doing any kind of scenery. A few shots in the video, especially in the beginning, have more vignetting than most and for some reason the video files fall completely apart when trying to color correct. No tripods were allowed in the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Tower, so I had to hand hold with a mini rig in a surprisingly crowded area.
Everything else came out great. With a little bit of work, I think this is a viable rig for a big project. I almost want to shave the front off my Ultra Star just to try to get rid of that little vignette completely, but it may just be the fact that the rear of the c-mount lens just barely works vignette free as is. Either way, this is a real-deal setup that I will keep even as I start focusing my collection down. These types of videos are helping figure out what I want to work with in the future. I have definitely found something special. Here’s to the future!
When the newest GH5 Firmware update came out, it claimed to improve the stability of the VFR. To me, in hope, that was fixing some of the issues that I had earlier with the high speed modes beyond 120fps. We did do a few 120fps shots in Tokyo Dreams and I really didn’t see what everybody was complaining about. I had a few editors not even know it was shot in HD next to the 4K footage. So, with firmware version 2.2 in hand, I set out to Maihama Skate Park in Tokyo to practice skate filming and see if I could break the 180fps mode on the GH5.
I think using the VFR mode well is to know it’s limitations and strengths. Some of the best and cleanest shots were done with a good DoF. I used the 42.5mm f/1.2 Nocticron when I could, and even tried a few shots on my beloved 75mm Cosmicar f/1.4 c-mount lens. I always had the shutter at 180 and used a variable ND until it got too dark. I saw next to no issues with the footage frame wise, but I did not try to push any of the colors in editing. All in all I think I will be doing more slow motion at 180fps and not worry about any problems that seem to keep people from using it. The next step for me is to try and rack focus while filming fast motion. It’s kinda scary, as you could easily end up with nothing in focus, instead of most things in focus.
I am still slowly learning how to film skating properly. I don’t skate, so what I can do filming-wise is limited. I’d love to learn how to be a skate filmer and get to chase on a board, but I can’t risk getting injured or breaking gear right now. Maybe soon?
I was very lucky to get some great skaters for this video. Special thanks to everybody who helped out! And I’m sorry if I filmed you and it’s not in the video. I most likely screwed up the shot somehow.
Skaters in order of appearance:
My first real music video in awhile, and my first music video as JSD. Pretty excited to get it out there and the reception has been great!
Jerell wanted something quick and gritty, and he was thrilled with the result. After he told me what he wanted, I knew the perfect setting: Minato Mirai in Yokohama. We filmed half the video in Shinjuku and half at Minato Mirai. I had planned to try and film more in the Cosmo World amusement park, but they closed on days we needed to film and closed early the day we were there. It’s all good, as we got plenty of good footage regardless.
I filmed the video with a special setup using special settings on the GH5. I wanted ALL-I 60p 10-bit video, and my camera can only do that in 1080. Didn’t bother me, as I was going to use an anamorphic lens anyway. I used my Aivascope 1.75x anamorphic lens with the Focuser 8 diopter. Normally it’d be really difficult to use this setup at night, but I discovered that if I use my Voightlander 17.5mm f/0.95 lens in ETC Mode on the GH5, I can get much better images at even f/1.2 with the Aivascope. That lens loves small sensors.
I’m glad I got to help him out with his first real music video. I’ll be working with him and his crew more in the future. Next time we’ll take the quality up a notch. Looking forward to it!
Camera: Panasonic GH5, 60fps 4K, ISO 1600 mostly, SS 100 always. V-LOG, Firmware 2.0 with Anamorphic IS and IS lock.
Lens: Pentax Super Takumar 50mm 1.4, used at f/1.4 and f/2.0
Anamorphic: Möller 32/2x
0.5+ and 3.0+ diopters.
Filmed near Yokohama Station, Japan.
This ended up being a pretty epic combination. I’ve had the Beholder DS2A for a few weeks now, but I’ve been dealing with weather, flaky people, and health issues that have kept me from making this video. I hope to have a full review of the DS2A soon, but I have to focus on what I can for now.
First off, while the Möller and the Beholder make this video what it is, the D2S 5th axis arms and the new GH5 firmware make it epic. As for the D2S arms, I am still learning how to tweak them for various situations. It might not be down to calibration as much as it is preference and walking situation. I’ll try to have more on this when I do a full review. Overall, they DO make a big enough difference that makes them worth the money in my mind.
The new firmware brings us video IS lock. This is HUGE for gimbal and steadycam work. The difference is obvious, especially when using Dual IS lenses. I can actually use the Nocticron with this rig, but only with ETC turned on. I stuck with the 50mm so I could get a wider image. Also, it seems the 2.0 anamorphic IBIS makes a difference as well. I should do a comparison.
That said, this was shot using a 50mm lens (33mm HFOV with the anamorphic) and the walking shots are so damn smooth. I have never really even tried any gimbal work on something that tight or a lens setup this big. Now, to balance and support it properly I had to make a simple support rig. It’s made from that simple aluminum flash bar that is for sale everywhere and part of a telescope lens clamp to support the end. Using a washer, I got it nice and flat along the rig.
The only unfortunate result of this is that it makes the camera and lens sit a bit high. While I can get it perfectly balanced, occasionally sharp movements will cause some vertical wobble. I’m pretty sure I could get rid of this with some PID and settings tweaks, but I’m very happy with the base gimbal settings. As you can see in the photo, the angled motor arm makes this rig possible. I don’t think I could do the same setup on the non-angled DS2. It does make it a bit weird to balance, though. I’m still getting use to it. Balancing overall was super easy. When I added diopters to the front I could re-balance the rig in less than a minute. I did use Warp Stabilizer on a few wide shots, but I doubt you’ll be able to tell which ones.
Because of the difficulty of the rig, I decided to find a sweet spot and just stick with it. Really pushing that 1600 ISO on some of these, but It doesn’t bother me too much for night video. It’s mostly shot at f/1.4, but I think some of the super bright crowd shots are at f/2.0. The lens and the anamorphic were kept at infinity and diopters were added, except for two shots where I double focused to get beyond what the 0.5+ Tamron could reach. It wasn’t too bad. The bokeh in this video is superb, the flares hit just right, colors are mostly good. I am still learning how to deal with V-LOG, but you gotta take what you can get with this setup. Shooting at night left me locked at a shutter speed of 100 to prevent flicker. I think I want to invest in some light ND filters for night video eventually.
I need to super thank Matthew (rhyminggaijin) and Kahesi for helping me with this shoot. They did a great job and I’ll most likely work with them again in the future. (Their links are below) I’m not sure why, but I’ve had a REALLY hard time getting people for my videos. Either people are too shy, flake out, or just never get back to me. It’s really hindering my production schedule. I’m getting tired of working around it.
Lastly, I ask for your patience as I have been dealing with some health issues this year that are the real reason for the lack of regular updates. I have so much on the shelf and so many projects that I’ve had to outright cancel. After this shoot I have been really struggling to get through the day. I’m hoping that my most recent hospital visit will be the start of getting this cleared up. I have so much I want to do…
ANYWAY! I was pretty happy with this video overall. I want to do more and eventually clean it up to a more professional look, or at least as close as this rig can get. Look forward to more!
So, after a deal with a very dangerous group of individuals, I have finally acquired a GH5. This wasn’t planned to happen for a few more months, maybe even a year… but hey… GH5.
Not having a GH5 is not the reason for the lack of updates. I was very sick over the past few months. Last year a had a bout with vertigo that came back with a vengeance this year. Makes it hard to focus on anything. This was compounded by a list of other problems I won’t mention here. I am much better now. That’s all that matters.
I will go more in depth into GH5 ownership as I go down the road. For now, let’s talk about the two videos I posted recently.
One of the huge differences between the G7 and the GH5 is the 6K photo mode uses the actual full sensor, where the 4K photo mode on the G7 did not. Another big difference is the use of H.265 for these video files, which are a pain in the ass to deal with. However, once the files are properly re-wrapped in Handbrake, you get a massive 4992×3744 video file. When doing my first batch of tests on the first sunny day in awhile (the weather has been horrible since I got the GH5, pushing back planned videos) I shot a few “6K” videos. Of course I had to do it with an anamorphic attached. After all was said and done I had 20 seconds of 9984×3744 pixels at 14.1 GB. The only codec that seemed to be able to handle it in Adobe Media Encoder was the GoPro Cineform RGB 12-bit preset. I was using the Isco Ultra Star and the Panasonic 45-175mm zoom, a combination I use for no-nonsense sharp images. It was a successful test, but I think I can do better. I may clean out my work drive and try a short edit of sorts to see how far I can push it. I may even get out the Zoom H2 and do 5.1 surround audio too. Wow.
On to the next…
I picked up a copy of the Möller Anamorphot 32/2x awhile ago, but didn’t get much of a chance to shoot with it. This is a very special lens. I wanted one after hearing you could just screw a 40.5mm step ring on the front and use it as/is. Well, this was the start of a few issues I had with mine. To keep it short, I ended up having to file down the inside of the step-ring to get it to fit right, and even then it took awhile for me to get the confidence to put anything on the step ring. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work to well with the Aivascope Focuser 8. It’s just a bit too long. It does, however, work perfectly with my set of 52mm Nikon diopters. The filter ring also doesn’t rotate when you are focusing, a rarity among anamorphic projection lenses. If you get the custom Redstan clamp for it, it’s a completely trouble-free lens and is incredibly easy to use.
The above video was shot entirely at f/1.4 and double focus. You can use it at 1.2 as well, but my only 1.2 lens is too wide to use the Möller in Anamorphic mode. It’s such a sharp lens… just unbelievably impressive. I am, however, lucky that I can even use it in this state.
When I was cleaning up the lens and getting ready to black out the edges, I had the filter ring completely removed to get at the edges better with my paint marker. However, the lens was set at infinity. And with the top lock collar also removed, a bit of pressure on the top of the lens pushed down the focusing part and the front element…. popped up. It was a nightmare getting it aligned properly again. But as you can see above, I did eventually get it right.
Lastly… having 60fps at 4K is pretty amazing. I will thoroughly abuse this feature. I will also have fun with the other high frame rates… but I already hit a roadblock with those. More on that later!
Still working on a lot of things at the moment, but I had to go out and film/upload something in the meantime. It was pouring rain today. I have a high-quality camera that is water resistant that does slow motion. Let’s put it to use!
The whole video was shot on the iPhone 7 Plus using both cameras. It’s attached to a selfie-stick (I get these things for free from distributors all the time. I have 4 of them) and filmed at 1080p 120 fps using the Mavis app. Edited in Adobe Premier and lightly color corrected. Music is something I threw together in Garageband ages ago.
Wasn’t planning for this to be my first upload, but all my main projects are taking more time than I planned for various reasons.
I never get tired of city visuals in Japan.
This was mainly practice using the 1080p 120 fps feature on my Sony RX100IV. I wandered into main areas of Yokohama with the camera on my Beholder DS1 and just filmed whatever. It has no post stabilization and no additional time warping or remapping. Just re-interpolate the 120 fps to 24 fps and this is what you get. Aside some issues with color correcting (something I really need to practice more) I’m about 75% happy with how it came out.
Music was thrown together from something else I was working on rather quickly, so it’s not the best mix. No soundcloud until I make something I’m at LEAST 60% happy with.